When Ely Key and Garrett Riffle first envisioned sharing their homemade switchel with the world, it wasn’t from a state-of-the-art kitchen in a warehouse in Bushwick, the 7th coolest neighborhood in the world. Rather, they thought they might jerryrig a motorhome and tour the inlands, slinging their wares from their house-on-wheels and spreading the good, vinegary gospel. But as the dream coalesced into reality, they realized that that might not be financially feasible, and they set up shop in Brooklyn, under the name Up Mountain Switchel.

Switchel catches the afternoon light with grace and elegance.

When I asked about the origins of their name, they struggled a little to define the term, to my immense delight. Rather than tossing off some pat answer, they gestured at something so ingrained in their world views that it was hard to pin down, like trying to describe the cultural differences between Chelsea and Tribeca to someone who’s never been to the city before. Let’s just say: “You’re getting into something if you’re going up mountain.”