If several weeks ago you noticed that Bushwick, of all places, seemed to have become just a shade more Ashkenazi—and, just maybe, French-Canadian—know that your mind is sound, that there was a good reason for that impression: just half a block from Maria Hernandez Park, a branch of the citywide bagel chain Black Seed opened its doors to the public. Known primarily for a flagship product that splices together the disparate—and often mutually antagonistic—baking styles of Montreal and New York, the enterprise is helmed by chef and partner Dianna Daoheung, who has been nominated twice for a James Beard “Best Baker” award thanks to her work directing what are now seven Black Seed shops scattered around Manhattan and Brooklyn.