On a Friday night, Gottscheer Hall is popping.

The over-90-year-old establishment has bore the storm of two world wars and the construction of multiple condos with the ease of Moby Dick, apathetic to Ahab. Announcing itself with a nondescript awning at the crest of Fairview Avenue, it feels older than time; there may well be ivy wrapped arounds its bliss-white bricks.

Google has saw fit to honor this history by labeling the location a “longtime taproom with German bar bites,” but this does the work of its busy kitchen a disservice. There is a one-page menu packed to the margins: you can order a plate of pierogies that quiver in your mouth, brats surrounded by a stew of sauerkraut and potato salad.