Threesome Tollbooth is to bars what the surprise complimentary back massage is to nail salon manicures: intimate, a tad invasive, but apprehensively calming and weirdly unregrettable. While the coolness of second-wave speakeasies may have eroded along with the popularity of “planking” and thin-as-fuck eyebrows, Threesome Tollbooth’s owner, N.D. Austin—the same man who turned the Chelsea water tower into a speakeasy in 2013—is banking on the notion that extreme intimacy, to some, could be the next infinity scarf of bar culture.

