In Bushwick we have bodegas on every corner. In Cuba they used to have “fondas,” small restaurants run mostly by women from their home kitchens until Castro abolished private business and shut them all down.

Wish you could’ve eaten at a Cuban fonda before they disappeared? Newly opened Fonda Cubana serves up all that good home cooking right here in the neighborhood.

Owner Elizabeth Cuenca (with chef Jason Lozada, formerly of ABC Kitchen near Union Square) smiles sweetly, almost even romantically when she opens up about her new place.