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Food & Drink

By The Slice: Neither A Crisis Nor A Boring Change

For the first time, Roberta's now sells slice-sized pizza

Review of Roberta's Slice Shop Brooklyn Bushwick 1

By The Slice: Neither A Crisis Nor A Boring Change

For the first time, Roberta's now sells slice-sized pizza

By The Slice: Neither A Crisis Nor A Boring Change
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With a characteristic amount of fanfare, which is to say none at all, Roberta’s had briefly endorsed Rhaenyra Targaryen. For just about a week — if you’re reading this, you’ve already missed it — the doors of the upscale pizzeria’s new slice shop were decorated with flags that announced things like “Roberta’s Is Loyal To The One True Queen,” a reference to the character Emma D’Arcy plays on the show.

The vaguely elaborate advertisement for the new season of the HBO spinoff would extend to selling a themed “Slice of the Seven Kingdoms,” a pie whose presence was as curious and short-lived as any other ideas coming from the Zaslav media conglomerate. But what was perhaps silliest about the sponsored content was that Roberta’s has already, since mid-spring, been selling slices of a different kind of pie that would have been even more fitting endorsement for a fantasy TV show about dragons: the fire & ice, an occasionally reappearing pie that the pizzeria has only just now started selling by the slice ($6).

Coming now in the form of a thin, yet cavernous canyon of stracciatella cheese amid islands of schmeared, brick-red ‘ndjua, these fall off the bone like anything else that has come out of these wood-fired stoves over the last decade or so. For slightly less ($4-$5) you can pick up simpler plain or pepperoni versions, which come out in gently enormous, lunch-worthy slices that arrive on paper plates, like you’re still in high school or at your corner Sal’s.

Coming, instead, from Roberta’s, the conceit is a welcome one. Before handing over the slice, the kitchen throws on additional toppings in a kind of jaunty, Ratatouille-like way, which is…

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