I’ve driven hundreds of miles with my brothers, father and best friend in search of Cuban Sandwiches that are more than just passable. They have to be made with heart and have a spark that belies the simplicity of the ingredients. It’s an easy thing to phone in and miss. But when done right, the bliss is effervescent. One sign of a place with potential is the quality of their café con leche. It was by this mark that I first judged Cafeteria La Mejor on Suydam and Wilson. My first time was splendid.

To go with the café con leche ($3.75) I generally order a tostada ($3.00) – Cuban bread pressed with melted butter and perfect for dipping in the coffee. I started going here shortly after the place opened in September of 2012 – and wondered if my initial joy was a symptom of having been away from Florida for so long.

Upon repeat visits, I could see that the coffee was consistently delicious. I would quietly return and talk with the owner Jeremy Sapienza and his brother Mike, both of whom are from South Florida. It’s an easy ordeal to get loaded on caffeine here – the coffees also benefit from the authority of authenticity. No small task considering that the purveyors are not of Cuban origin – and have recreated their Florida from memory.