The rolls at Millers & Makers sell out fast. 

This might be because they’re not like most buns or rolls anywhere — not the crusty and cloying kind or any attempt to reinvent that particular wheel. Instead, they’re thick, sweet potato rolls, bronzed elegantly like crumbling bricks and heavy in a way that feels serious.

Josh Pickens, who bakes them and sells them out of enormous tubs, says the recipe had started out as a Parker House roll that he was developing during a stint at Brooklyn Bread Lab, a bakery once parked inside the Williamsburg Hotel. These days, he’s putting out some of the most exciting baked goods to come out of Ridgewood, where it sits next to a cafe run by a Food Network regular and a Pinterest-worthy gift shop, both relatively new creations of the neighborhood’s changing economic landscape.