Those unfamiliar with biscuits and gravy need not leave the confines of our neighborhood to educate themselves. Many of Bushwick’s (dare we use the B word) brunch serving establishments offer the flaky, doughy goodness that is the biscuit, and serve it swimming in gravy. Perhaps you’re already a devotee. Perhaps you’ve taken to hating on brunch a la Julian Casablancas. Either way, biscuits and gravy deserves some respect. The American biscuit (not to be confused with the English biscuit) stands alone on its gluten-ous, doughy merit but ultimately longs for an accessory.
Paired with gravy, one has a classic country meal, Americana in foodie form. Bushwick chefs are going rogue with innovative gravies, resulting in nuanced varieties of the otherwise basic dish. I implore you to make the trek to one of these 3 fine establishments to try Bushwick’s finest biscuity goodness.
#1 Cafe Ghia @ 24 Irving Ave ($10)
I’m going to be candid: these are my favorite biscuits and gravy in the city. At Ghia one can have their biscuits with vegetarian mushroom gravy or go the route of an extra hearty bacon and mushroom gravy. What stands out most about Ghia’s take on the dish is the incredibly flavorful gravy that defies all suggestions of McCormick mix. An added bonus: it’s served with a choice of bacon or seasonal vegetable. For $10 (veg variety) or $12 (bacon) one is receives a heaping amount of food.
#2 983 Bushwick’s Living Room @ 983 Flushing Ave ($9)
983’s housemade buttermilk biscuit is served with mushroom gravy. This 100% vegetarian dish toes the line of fresh and hearty, and the gravy is thick. Fans of mushrooms will rejoice: while Ghia’s slivers fungi for their gravy, 983 leaves them whole and prominent. The attendant biscuit comes dense and buttery. Note that while breakfast is always offered on their ‘all day menu,’ this particular dish is only available during weekend brunch hours.
#3 Tutu’s @ 25 Bogart St ($10)
Tutu’s spins the dish heartily with toasted garlic & chive biscuits smothered in a pork sausage gravy. The garlic and chives in the biscuit are just shy of overwhelming, meaning the gravy stands a chance to stick out in its role as biscuit accessory. This dish is a decidedly nouveau Southern meal and is not meant for those who have dieted in the past, present, or who plan to do so in the future. Find solace in the garden salad Tutu’s serves alongside the biscuity goodness, all of which is served on a cutting board because why not?
Ed. Note: The Trailhouse has been known to run a pretty damn fine brunch special every now and then of biscuits and gravy with eggs on top!