I made many visits to Chef Kevin Adey’s former kitchen at neighborhood staple Northeast Kingdom, so when he opened Faro with his partner Debbie Adey in mid-May of this year, I was lined up at the door.
His food is defined by exquisitely-cooked proteins paired with innovative vegetable combinations that don’t feel intuitive until you take the first bite. Faro adds a new twist to Adey’s specialty: house made-pasta. Adey hosted several local food writers last month for a tasting dinner, which was a veritable feast built around a locally-sourced summer bounty.
THE SETTING: Bright, Open, Modern
Unlike the claustrophobic, densely-seated rooms that often seem to be the norm in Brooklyn these days, Faro is intentionally spare with tables large enough for sharing, high ceilings, and clean, white-washed brick walls.
THE SEDUCTION: Pick Your Poison
A list of six cocktails, all $12, includes one of the best whiskey sours I have ever had the pleasure of drinking: a healthy dose of Medley Bros. 102 Heritage Bourbon balanced by dashes of lemon and bitters, and a lovely foam that lent the drink it’s distinctive froth, topped with orange peel and a (real) maraschino cherry.
Alternatively, Faro’s wine list is both selective and comprehensive (and, yes, they have rosé on tap), all curated by Debbie Adey, who put in time at Jean Georges previously. Their draft list is also well curated, featuring unique local beers, like Flagship Brewing’s Rye IPA, full of complex flavor and body from the rye, yet surprisingly light.
THE FOREPLAY: You Can’t Go Wrong Sharing Small Plates
For a salt addict like me, the pig’s head terrine with a frisée salad, a special that evening, was the perfect starter. The chilled meat was salty and rich complemented well by the lightly-dressed frisée.
Another standout appetizer was the local grain porridge. Raw zucchini in a thick, savory porridge served as a base for the dish’s highlight: fresh peekytoe crab in a deep-fried squash blossom that was crunchy and succulent.
THE BUILD: Unique Takes on Homemade Pastas
The squid ink calamaretti—with cleverly-shaped noodles in small loops reminiscent of rings of calamari—was served with Maine lobster in a coconut curry. The lobster dominated appropriately and the light coconut curry sauce was a surprisingly compliment that didn’t overwhelm the dish.
My favorite pasta of the evening was a corn tortellini served with chanterelles, mascarpone, and fresh corn, charred until it was slightly caramelized and sweet. The corn and mascarpone played the perfect balance of salty and sweet, and the umami from the chanterelles punched the flavor up even further.
THE CLIMAX: Perfectly Plump Proteins
As delicious as Chef Adey’s pastas may be, it’s the perfectly cooked proteins that complete the meal. Like those at Northeast Kingdom, the pan-roasted scallops on Faro’s menu do not disappoint. Perfectly seared, with a golden, buttery crust on the outside, they were served that night with a delicious sunchoke soubise and crispy, sweet sugar snap peas.
Likewise, the mallard duck breast, served medium rare, was charred and savory on the outside and chewy and flavorful in the center. It was served with a rhubarb puree and roasted fennel, drizzled with some honey to keep the dish from becoming overly bitter.
THE SPOONING: House-Milled Grain Cake Panna Cotta
For dessert, we were treated to a panna cotta with strawberries and a crumbled corn cake. The panna cotta was firm yet creamy, the strawberries sweet, and the corn cake, made with house-milled corn and almonds, crumbly and tasty. The perfect spoonful of sweetness to wrap up an immensely satisfying meal.
Grounded in Kevin Adey’s delicious rotating menu and Debbie Adey’s front of the house expertise, Faro is on track to become one of the best fine-dining restaurants in Bushwick. Quick, before their summer menu is phased out — go get your food porn on!
Faro is open daily from 6pm to 11pm and is located at 436 Jefferson St., Bushwick.
