As New Businesses Change the Mold, Local Deli Struggles to Compete

On the corner of Starr and Irving Streets in Bushwick lies an unassuming shop called the Starr Deli

As New Businesses Change the Mold, Local Deli Struggles to Compete
At Starr Deli (All photos by Alonzo Maciel unless otherwise stated)

On the corner of Starr and Irving Streets in Bushwick lies an unassuming shop called the Starr Deli. Walk in and there’s the usual convenience items: 99 cent Arizona Ice tea, salty kettle chips, diet coke. The only people seated in the shop are an old couple – it’s clear they aren’t there for the standard fare. It looks like they’re eating miniature, greasy potstickers. When asked what he’s devouring, Ronald Podolsky replies with a grin, “the Pierogi.” Dorota and Jerzy Swiader opened Starr Deli in 2007 with the intention of selling authentic, homemade Polish food. The Pierogi – a baked dumpling typically stuffed with potatoes or meat – was an instant hit though the majority of the Bushwick population was not Polish. It’s just one of the many Polish delicacies that Starr Deli offers, from Kielbasa to Bigos.

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