Since opening some eight years ago, Santa Panza has specialized in varied Neapolitan pizzas and pastas that feel homemade. In recent years, however, owner Evro Schwebel — formerly general manager at Saraghina in Bed-Stuy — says he has embraced a more rigorous commitment to using seasonal ingredients, either sourced locally or imported directly from Italy. This commitment has resulted in menus that typically change every two or three months, sometimes even daily, depending on the availability of new produce.
“Luckily Italian food is all about showcasing great ingredients so it works very well,” says Schwebel, who relies on a robust rolodex of various suppliers. His menu’s new whipped ricotta ($16), for instance, is a “small plate” showcasing just that; alongside a heaping portion of the titular creamy ricotta, he has thrown in tomatoes imported from Lancaster county, Pennsylvania, which are perhaps the best I’ve had all summer. Confited with garlic, the tomatoes provide a sweetness, acidity, and a layer of umami that cuts through the rich cheese. Served alongside a flaky side of focaccia, which he imports from the Sullivan Street Bakery in Manhattan, it feels like a perfect tool for scooping up every last bit.
While some fan-favorite dishes, like the “Santa Panza” pizza ($22), the meatball plates ($17) and the pricier “NY strip steak” ($55) remain constants on the menu, new items frequently appear, and others are tweaked to showcase different ingredients. The latest iteration of their recurring “Ortolana” pie ($23) – that’s “gardener” in Italian – now comes loaded with Japanese eggplant, marinated cherry tomatoes, garlic, and ricotta salata.
“This is my favorite dish currently. I can’t wait every year for it to be on the menu. I grew up with Greek and Israeli influences, plus working in Italian restaurants for 14 years and being married to a Sicilian woman, so it’s a mishmash of all my favorite things,” says Schwebel. It’s a dish that perfectly captures the transition from late summer to early fall, vegetal-packed with earthy flavors and a tangy reprieve, courtesy of the balsamic-infused tomatoes.
Changing menus as often as Santa Panza often requires hours of research with George Viguerie, who has been head chef at Santa Panza since 2022.
“When we have these meetings it’s always a collaboration of our favorite dishes, dishes that have been popular in the past, ingredients that are coming into season,” says Schwebel. “Sometimes we also just choose dishes that are our favorites and remind us of our childhood.”
Among the new pastas this season, Schwebel is pushing the stuffed ricotta agnolotti ($27), which pairs al dente pasta perfectly with a soft cheese filling, swimming within a subtle sauce of brown butter, marjoram, and toasted pine nuts. More bright, plump cherry tomatoes abound, as well as a touch of lemon zest, as if to provide respite from the rich ricotta filling.
For many, the idea of watermelon rind, also imported from the Pennsylvania countryside, might feel unfamiliar, with limited appeal, especially if you are too familiar with getting to the end of a slice of watermelon. But when pickled and paired in a bed of arugula and served atop Schwebel’s latest take on chicken milanese ($24), it transforms into something entirely new. It adds a delightful crunch, subtle brininess, and a more nuanced flavor than any pickle.
Santa Panza is located at 1079 Broadway. Keep up with their menu and hours on their Instagram.
Photos taken by Steve Zavitz.
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